Post by jackmarc on May 30, 2009 20:25:49 GMT -5
Here is an excerpt from a post on the Profile Brotherhood site by fuel expert Brian "Fuelman" Cooper of Cooper Fuels. He has (had) a wonderful synthetic oil that he sold in his product line. He mentions a "Quality Synthetic" oil in the post below, so (my opinion) if the FuelMan speaks, folks should listen:
Quote:
Most of the gasser flyers have been brainwashed that their is some special, magical break-in method and oil that MUST be used in order for their engine to acheive its optimal performance.....
Here's my break in method: Fuel-it, Flip-it, Fly-it.....in that order.
You will achieve a superior ring to cylinder fit with a quality synthetic, being used right from the start. It will take a little longer to achieve maximum compression, but who cares. You fly it like you would normally after the first couple of tanks and insure it is a bit on the rich side. I would make sure that the oil is blended at the ratio the engine manufacturer recommends for the first gallon. But thats it, fly it.
By loading and unloading the engine and varying the throttle settings, the ring will seat perfectly every time. Load it and unload it by doing some very big loops or a bunch of cuban eights. On the upline, you are compression loading the engine which exerts greater force on the ring pushing against the cylinder wall which causes it to seat. While this is happening, the ring and cylinder wall friction (before its seated) will cause very high localized heat at the ring. It is because of this that you want a very high quality lube so the oil does not cook and carbon up the ring land, or overheat the ring.
This is the reason engines seat the rings so fast in lawn boy oil, the oil breaks down and burns up at the ring to wall interface, leaving little lubricant to relieve the friction. That is why they want you to baby the engine when breaking it in on lawn boy, to minimize the pressure and heat at the ring during the first critical few runs.
Use a synthetic like mine (oh, wait, there are no others like mine...) and fly it like you stole it, just do it a little richer for the first gallon or two. Your engine will thank you several years down the road.
If you really want to see what this oil can do, find an atv or wet bike that is two stroke oil injected with RAV exhaust valves that like to stick from carbon build up. Dump the oil tank and replace with this oil and go run the living snot out of that thing for a quart of oil or so, then take the RAV valve apart and look at how clean it slippery it is.
Quote:
Quote:I'm at about 40:1 and have about 3/4 gallon through it. Should I move to the 50:1 ratio at a gallon or should I keep the ratio for break-in longer to give the rings more time with the synthetic oil?
Bill,
I'm a firm believer that you should run the oil mixture at whatever the engine manufacturer suggests up to around 50:1. If it recommends 50:1 then use it, if it recommends a little less, then use that. The additional oil in the fuel if it is a rich ratio will not carbon anything up with this oil, it will remain clean burinng.
If you want to go to 50:1 after a gallon, I see no problems with doing that, obviously the tune will need a slight tweek.
If performance is an issue, thinking that leaner oil mixes will give more power. I've tested that beyond any reasonable amount. There is no power to be had in a model engine when going from 40:1 to 50:1
Quote:
Most of the gasser flyers have been brainwashed that their is some special, magical break-in method and oil that MUST be used in order for their engine to acheive its optimal performance.....
Here's my break in method: Fuel-it, Flip-it, Fly-it.....in that order.
You will achieve a superior ring to cylinder fit with a quality synthetic, being used right from the start. It will take a little longer to achieve maximum compression, but who cares. You fly it like you would normally after the first couple of tanks and insure it is a bit on the rich side. I would make sure that the oil is blended at the ratio the engine manufacturer recommends for the first gallon. But thats it, fly it.
By loading and unloading the engine and varying the throttle settings, the ring will seat perfectly every time. Load it and unload it by doing some very big loops or a bunch of cuban eights. On the upline, you are compression loading the engine which exerts greater force on the ring pushing against the cylinder wall which causes it to seat. While this is happening, the ring and cylinder wall friction (before its seated) will cause very high localized heat at the ring. It is because of this that you want a very high quality lube so the oil does not cook and carbon up the ring land, or overheat the ring.
This is the reason engines seat the rings so fast in lawn boy oil, the oil breaks down and burns up at the ring to wall interface, leaving little lubricant to relieve the friction. That is why they want you to baby the engine when breaking it in on lawn boy, to minimize the pressure and heat at the ring during the first critical few runs.
Use a synthetic like mine (oh, wait, there are no others like mine...) and fly it like you stole it, just do it a little richer for the first gallon or two. Your engine will thank you several years down the road.
If you really want to see what this oil can do, find an atv or wet bike that is two stroke oil injected with RAV exhaust valves that like to stick from carbon build up. Dump the oil tank and replace with this oil and go run the living snot out of that thing for a quart of oil or so, then take the RAV valve apart and look at how clean it slippery it is.
Quote:
Quote:I'm at about 40:1 and have about 3/4 gallon through it. Should I move to the 50:1 ratio at a gallon or should I keep the ratio for break-in longer to give the rings more time with the synthetic oil?
Bill,
I'm a firm believer that you should run the oil mixture at whatever the engine manufacturer suggests up to around 50:1. If it recommends 50:1 then use it, if it recommends a little less, then use that. The additional oil in the fuel if it is a rich ratio will not carbon anything up with this oil, it will remain clean burinng.
If you want to go to 50:1 after a gallon, I see no problems with doing that, obviously the tune will need a slight tweek.
If performance is an issue, thinking that leaner oil mixes will give more power. I've tested that beyond any reasonable amount. There is no power to be had in a model engine when going from 40:1 to 50:1
